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In the city of Emperors: Istanbul |
02 Oct 2011 | |||
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Blue Mosque with six minarets which is considered unique as normally mosques have a maximum of four minarets & the entrance to the Topkapi Palace. Our visit was to Istanbul, considered one of world’s important tourist destinations. The guide tells us that Istanbul had seen empires rise and fall — Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman. The Ottoman empire of Muslim rulers ended in 1922, but has left many architectural marvels behind — Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace (there was an english film titled Topkapi). Istanbul was also known as Constantinople when in 330 AD Roman Emperor Constantine the Great moved the capital from Rome to the ancient town of Byzantine in Thrace (european part of Turkey). Byzantine was the earlier name. It became Constantinople. Ottoman Turkey called the city Istanbul and it remains so to date. The capital Ankara, however, is in the Asian side, an hour’s flight from Istanbul. The church of Hagia Sophia (literally Holy Wisdomin Constantinople, now Istanbul, was first dedicated in 360 by Emperor Constantius, son of the city's founder, Emperor Constantine. Hagia Sophia served as the cathedra, or bishop's seat, of the city. Originally called Megale Ekklesia (Great Church), the name Hagia Sophia came into use around 430. The first church structure was destroyed during riots in 404; the second church, built and dedicated in 415 by Emperor Theodosius II, burned down during the Nika revolt of 532, which caused vast destruction and death throughout the city. Immediately after the riots, Emperor Justinian, who ruled from 527 - 565, ordered the church rebuilt. The new building was inaugurated on December 27, 537. Architects Anthemios of Tralles and Isidoros of Miletos most likely were influenced by the mathematical theories of Archimedes (ca. 287-212 B.C.) and Heron of Alexandria's writings on vaults and arch support (first century A.D.). Anthemios was born in the ancient city of Tralles in Asia Minor (in the area encompassed by modern Turkey) and probably studied in Alexandria, speaking Greek. Going from Athens to Istanbul is a contrast in experience. As we drive from the airport to our hotel in the European side of Istanbul, flower-beds can be seen all along with much greenery. I also thought of "Young Turks" of our Congress party during early days of Indira Gandhi, a socialist group of the Congress party. This is a term taken by Indian media from Turkish history where in the 19th century, a small group of Turkish students and military officers bonded together secretly and opposed the harsh policies of the then rulers. This group was called "Young Turks." This group finally succeeded in defeating the ruler. That was history. Sadly, our "Young Turks" of about five in number — Chandrashekhar, Krishan Kant, Arjun Arora, Shanthi Bhushan and Mohan Dharia — were only good at making speeches. One among them, Chandrashekhar, however, became the Prime Minister — courtesy Rajiv Gandhi — for a few months when for the first time India delivered a golden cargo to England to meet the country’s foreign exchange crunch. India had, then, lost financial credibility in the world market. Let it be. For a tourist in a hurry, like yours truly, the check-list of places to see and monuments to visit are few and on a tight schedule. The Egyptian spice market [Spice Bazaar] where we were taken before embarking on the Bosporus cruise was an experience of a rare kind. The arched walkway, a long corridor lined with shops bulging with spices, sweet-meats and other wares with perpendicular similar corridors packed with local people and tourists like sardines is an unforgettable sight. The place, despite the crowd, is neat and clean. People and shopkeepers are gentle and smiling, though they seemed to be in a hurry like me. Like every country and place in the world where each has its own special food and sweet-meat items, here too you have them in plenty, attractively displayed and packaged. From here we walk up to the embankment of Bosporus, for the cruise. As I mentioned earlier, it is a natural waterway to Black Sea. There are two suspension bridges, so huge to enable ships to pass under that you are left hugely wondering. This is the most scenic and also the most romantic part of Istanbul where you will be able to see beautiful houses of the rich and powerful [naturally with beautiful women inside!], fortresses and palaces created by its long history on either side covered with greenery. It is a sight for Gods to see. The water was clean sans trash, including condoms, floating all over as in the Thames river in London. A water-sweeper boat was seen in operation to keep the water free of flotsams. Other attractions are the Topkapi Palace spread on an 85 acre land with Treasury Section etc. Not at all a great architectural wonder as made out, compared to our own forts, palaces, temples and even mosques. The same could be said of the architecture of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque except for their massive, distinctly different kind of domes. Like all conquerors, here too, the Christians destroyed what the Muslims built and Muslims destroyed what the Christians built. As if to mollify the Christians, the Hagia Sophia which was originally a church, was later converted into a mosque with appropriate changes in the inner design as required for a mosque like covering the images of angels and other paintings with a coat of paint and then which was once again turned into a museum of sorts, though not to a Church. The guide was quick to show us an image of the angel with the area of the face which was covered with a coat of paint being removed to reveal the face. A secular country indeed. I remembered our own country where Babri Masjid is still a controversy. Then there is the Blue Mosque with more blue tiles in the guide's words than to justify calling it by that name. We were to be shown another famous market known as Grand Bazaar with over 6,000 shops; but it was closed. Before leaving on this tour, I was told by a friend familiar with Istanbul that the European side of Istanbul is costly compared to the Asian side, across the Bosporus strait. He told me not to miss looking at the massive jars in the bazaar on the Asian side, filled with live leeches. They are sold by weight and people use them to relieve themselves of skin infections or joint pains. Put the slimy leeches on the area of problem or pain, they will keep sucking the blood till they fall off by their own weight due to over-feeding of blood! And lo and behold, your pain is gone! I missed the opportunity. I was also told that in the region known as Anatolia, the rich and beautiful make a beeline along the beautiful beaches and holiday resorts; not for poor me, anyway. It is for those in Delhi, you know the CWG, 2G spectrum people and their children. Roads are well-laid and too good. In down town area, they are paved with cobble-stones and are clean. No wonder, come lunch time or dinner time, tables spread with fresh table-cloths and chairs are arranged on the roads by the road-side eateries and restaurants that serve a variety of most delicious food. People are friendly, talkative and smiling. I found a commonality in their physical form and facial features with my own people — the Kod-avas. So similar that I almost spoke to a person taking him to be a tourist from Kodagu, like me. No wonder some researchers say Kodavas came from the Kurdish tribe of Turkey. Ref. Star of Mysore: kbg@starofmysore.com |
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For us Indians, Turkey is a middle-western nation that is both in Europe and in Asia. Advantage: Enjoys the pleasures of both the worlds. About 3% of its territory is in the eastern part, a region called Thrace in ancient history. Greece is its most important neighbour on the European side. This part of Turkey has its most famous, largest and vibrant city called Istanbul. It is a beautiful region with greenery and eye-filling landscapes. It is divided from the Asian side of Turkey which forms 97% of the land by the Gulf (Strait) of Bosporus — an extension of Mediterranean and Aegian Sea that joins Black Sea to the north on the Russian side. The capital city of Turkey is Ankara. The region of Asia Minor (as mentioned in ancient history) is also known as Anatolia which is mountainous and dry in most parts.
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